Yohji Yamamoto is a genius, there's no doubt about that. But this collection has moved me and inspired me deeply. Despite the fact that his company is doing so badly that even his New York store is closing down, he stayed true to himself and designed against the trends and the flows of the rest of the fashion industry. I always remember that one quote from his interview with The Times in 2005, "I am a lazy person, all I want to do is to stay home and sew everyday." This collection not only showcases who Yamamoto is as a designer, but reinforces his place in the industry. I would say, he is guarding his ground firmly with a flair of naivety and innocence. It's as if he is in his own little world, dreaming, sketching and making this collection that is so hauntingly beautiful. His collection is the cross breed of true avant garde and wearability. His reference and inspiration is obvious yet subtle, and the level of attention to details is impeccable. I found myself downloading the HQ images and staring at each look for at least a good five minutes. The styling is spot on, especially that Mozart-esque hair and the gorgeously groomed perfect moustache. This is by far the best collection in my opinion from the Spring Summer 2011 Men's shows.
The show started with loud patterns and whole looks of the same pattern that is very seventies. He plays with porportions and lengths. I love the cravats and breeches. It is so early American settlement-esque. The riding coats are also extremely gorgeous. The color-blocking cardigan in the bottom right image shows how Yamamoto can also design pieces that will do well commercially.
The show then moves into a more innocent stage. The full color looks are so fresh and so unexpected of Yamamoto. And surprisingly, they actually look amazing. Normally, I would assume that wearing only one color, especially orange, would make one look like a class A douchebag. The next few looks were very boyish, with extremely well made riding trousers. I love the variations in the trousers from the tiniest details.
The next section of the show evolved into the 'typical' Yamamoto styled looks. Cropped loose pants, black and white textures, and strange porportions are his trademarks. It is brilliant how he can incoporate his trademark styles into this already strongly themed and styled collection without feeling a bit of inconstitency.
The final section of the show introduces a 'new' look for men. The lengthy polo embarked with what I would assume is Yamamoto's newly derived logo is worn as a dress-ish style. I personally want one of those oversized slim polos.
What an amazing collection. While all other big commercially-thriving-well companies are sending ridiculous looks such as bellybutton bearing crop tops down the runway, Mr. Yamamoto is writing a fantasy story with his vision, clothes and soul.